Off the beaten track in… the Caribbean?

It was fall, and looking out the window I was sure I could see winter on the horizon.  I’m of the opinion that Canada should be abandoned during the winter, though obviously work makes that somewhat difficult.  I did have a three day weekend coming up though and decided to fly south.

Not wanting to just visit another resort, I instead aimed to see if it was possible to get off the beaten track in the Caribbean.  Essentially, I wanted to find the island tourism had somehow missed, and after some hunting I found Dominica.

Dominica is a small island nation located in the West Indies.  It has a population of approximately 70,000, and the dubious honour of being named by Christopher Columbus after the day of the week on which he first saw it (Sunday, in Latin Dominica).

Touted as an island paradise, it was covered in lush greenery and boasted more than a few dirt roads.  As my Liat flight cruised low over hills unspoilt by civilization, I knew I had found somewhere special.

 There are several barriers which have helped Dominica remain relatively unknown to most Caribbean vacationers.  Amongst them: 

·         It isn’t built up like many Caribbean islands and won’t offer a luxurious escape.

·         The runways are short so larger jets can’t land here.  Liat operates regular flights, however the added trouble and travel time act as a deterrent for many travellers seeking a quick and relaxing escape.

·         The beaches are black sand which tends to be less of a draw than the fine white sands of neighboring islands. 

None of these points are drawbacks from my perspective. 

Renting a car and driver for the day was easy and inexpensive (about $40USD for 5 hours).  We roamed over hills covered with palm tree and banana plantations, through small villages where children played in the streets, and past unoccupied beaches where the only sounds were the wind and the dull roar of white-capped waves crashing into the sand.  Everywhere I looked it was stunning. 

A highlight was a small rum bar we stopped at.  It was perched at the edge of the beach and made up of a single room filled with four rickety wooden stools.  I’m pretty sure it was still morning, and I’m pretty sure I was drinking moonshine, but it was some of the best rum I’d ever tasted.  The options were endless, with jar upon jar filled not just with rum but with spices and herbs.  I had one that was flavored with cinnamon, another with anise, and eyed a third that I was almost certain had marijuana leaves floating in it.  Sitting there drinking, I chatted with a man who was out to take the Guinness World Record for longest beard.  He said he had a few more years to go, but already his beard was wrapped several times around his neck.

My last post was a link to the 25 least visited countries in the world.  Dominica is number 25, receiving only 73,000 tourists a year.  It’s stunning to think just how close it is to North America, and yet how unspoilt it remains by development.  Having been there, it’s easy to feel like you’re one of the few rather than one of the many.  That impression adds to the charm, and while I’d recommend a visit, I hope too that this little corner of the world remains forgotten for a while longer.